Fabric planning
Streetwear Fabric and GSM Options for Custom Orders
Fabric and GSM choices affect weight, drape, print result, seasonality, price, and how a streetwear piece feels in hand.
Common for oversized T-shirts and lighter tops.
Common for hoodies, sweatshirts, and sweatpants.
Useful when buyers want loopback texture and less bulk.
Used for jackets, pants, and shell pieces.
Fabric decision system
GSM is one input—not a fabric quality grade.
Choose the garment and fit first, then compare composition, knit or weave, surface, stretch, recovery, GSM, finish and decoration. A heavier fabric can create more structure, but it can also change drape, sewing, wash behavior, freight weight and landed cost. The sample should prove the complete route rather than a GSM number by itself.
Buyer guidance reviewed Sep 28, 2026
| Fabric route | Usually considered for | Starting weight conversation | What the sample must prove |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cotton jersey | Oversized T-shirts, long sleeves and lighter tops where print surface and drape matter. | Often discussed around 180–300 GSM. Premium oversized tees commonly start above lightweight jersey, but fit and finish decide the useful range. | Opacity, shrinkage, collar recovery, shoulder drape, print result and final measurements. |
| French terry | Loopback hoodies, sweatshirts, shorts and sets that need body without a brushed inner face. | Often reviewed around 280–420 GSM as a planning range, depending on loop structure, composition and season. | Loopback feel, stretch and recovery, rib match, seam bulk, wash response and decoration stability. |
| Brushed fleece | Hoodies, sweatpants and cold-season pieces that need warmth, softness and a fuller handfeel. | Often reviewed around 300–450+ GSM. Higher weight can add structure and freight, but does not replace construction review. | Brushed surface, pilling direction, hood and rib structure, shrinkage, embroidery support and print handfeel. |
| Interlock or double knit | Structured tees, tracksuits and clean-surface garments where stability and recovery matter. | Often discussed around 220–380 GSM, with composition and knit construction affecting stretch and drape. | Recovery, seam behavior, surface smoothness, panel consistency and how the garment holds its shape. |
| Woven or shell fabric | Jackets, windbreakers, cargo pants and other pieces where weave, coating and trim compatibility matter. | Do not approve from GSM alone. Review fiber content, weave, denier where relevant, coating, lining and finished handfeel. | Water or surface finish if specified, seam construction, lining, zipper and trim behavior, noise, drape and packability. |
Decision order
Use the same five checks before asking for a fabric price.
- 01Garment and fit
Name the product, silhouette and key measurements. A boxy tee, cropped hoodie and relaxed tracksuit need different body, recovery and seam decisions.
- 02Season and market
Explain whether the product is for summer, layering, cold weather or year-round use, and where it will be sold or shipped.
- 03Handfeel and reference
Send a reference garment or close photographs and state what matters: softness, stiffness, dry touch, brushed feel, loopback texture, stretch or drape.
- 04Decoration and finish
Place puff print, screen print, embroidery, applique, wash and garment dye into the fabric decision before sampling—not after the blank is approved.
- 05Quantity and repeatability
Give quantity by style and color, size range and reorder intent so availability, dye-lot control and future matching can be reviewed with the quote.
Quote-ready examples
Write the fabric request as a product decision.
These are briefing examples, not fixed specifications. Use them to show the level of detail a factory can review before confirming availability, sample cost or bulk price.
Oversized T-shirt
Do not send only “heavy cotton.”
Oversized cotton-jersey T-shirt; 240–280 GSM direction; boxy fit with stable collar; faded black target; large back screen print and small chest embroidery; quantity split by color and size; sample required before bulk.
Streetwear hoodie
Connect GSM to construction.
Oversized pullover hoodie; 360–420 GSM fleece direction; structured hood and rib recovery; raised chest print; neck and care labels; polybag and size sticker; destination and target delivery window included.
Woven jacket
Use more than a weight number.
Relaxed streetwear jacket; woven shell with lining; matte handfeel; zipper and pocket references; sleeve embroidery; label and packout requirements; review weave, coating and trim route during sampling.
RFQ preparation
What to include in a fabric and GSM RFQ.
- Product type, season, target hand feel, and reference garment if available.
- Preferred fiber content, fabric type, GSM range, and colorways.
- Print, embroidery, puff print, or wash requirements that may affect fabric choice.
- Target retail positioning, budget range, quantity, and size range.
- Shipping country and timeline so fabric availability can be reviewed.
FAQ
Fabric and GSM buyer answers
What GSM should a custom hoodie use?
Many streetwear hoodies use midweight to heavyweight fleece, but the right GSM depends on fit, season, target price, decoration, and shipping weight.
What fabric works for oversized T-shirts?
Cotton jersey or cotton-blend jersey is common for oversized T-shirts because it gives a printable surface and comfortable drape.
Should fabric be chosen before artwork?
Fabric and artwork should be reviewed together because print, embroidery, puff print, and wash effects can perform differently on different fabrics.
Next step
Send fabric targets with the RFQ.
Send product type, target handfeel or GSM, season, fabric route, decoration, quantity, size range, destination, and price direction.